onesvintagehk | Guide to Hermès Leather

1｜Introduction

2 | Togo

3 | Espom

4 | Evercolor

5 | Box

6 | Barenia

7 | Taurillon Clemence

8 | Swift

9 | Chèvre Coromandel

10 | Chèvre Mysore

11 | Porosus

12 | Niloticus

13 | Alligator

14 | Ostrich

15 | Lizard

1｜Introduction

Hermès uses a wide variety of leathers, including various types of cowhide, lambskin, and exotic leathers, each with different characteristics, durability, and weight. In our previous article, we discussed how Hermès marks rare leathers specifically on their leather goods, and we briefly introduced some of the rare leathers used by Hermès. In this article, we will provide you with an informational guide on the common leathers used by Hermès. We hope that newcomers interested in Hermès or those looking to understand Hermès leathers can easily grasp the unique characteristics and craftsmanship behind these luxurious materials.
 

2 | Togo

 Since its introduction in 1997, Hermès' Togo leather has become one of the most popular leathers. Named after the African country of Togo, this leather is crafted using a drumming process. Made from the neck part of young bull hides, Togo leather features a fine grain, is scratch-resistant, easy to refurbish, and relatively lightweight.

Togo is a durable leather and a low-maintenance leather choice. It is a natural pebble-grain leather with a matte finish, characterized by small grains and visible veins, resembling the texture of lychee skin, although not all Togo leathers have grain. Due to its unique texture, Togo leather is less prone to showing scratches, making it advantageous compared to other leathers. Additionally, it is relatively easy to maintain, with most stains easily wiped off with a damp cloth. It is also relatively easy to repair in case of water exposure or minor scratches, although it comes at a higher price point, making it a popular leather choice for many newcomers. However, over time, Togo leather may soften and sag, especially in larger handbags.

3 | Epsom

Epsom is Hermès' most commonly used classic hard leather, made from full-grain calf leather known as "handprint leather." This leather was introduced in 2004 to replace the discontinued Courchevel leather of the same year. The smooth, neat, firm texture and charming sheen of Epsom leather are not naturally occurring but are a result of Hermès' unique artificial hot-pressing process. This embossing process creates small and uniform grains, making the leather more rigid, scratch-resistant, and waterproof.

Epsom is often used in crafting Kelly and Birkin bags in the Sellier style. It is particularly popular for being lightweight, scratch-resistant, maintaining its shape, and offering more vibrant color options compared to most other leathers. It is also very easy to maintain, as it can be wiped clean with a damp cloth, making it highly practical. However, due to the embossed texture, Epsom leather may experience wear at contact points, and these areas of wear cannot be refurbished.
 

4 | Evercolor

Introduced in 2013, Evercolor was initially used for crafting small leather goods and is related to Evercalf and Evergrain but is more durable. It is a full-grain calf leather, embossed with a tight grain pattern, offering a soft touch and a matte appearance with a subtle sheen. As a durable Hermès leather, it excels like other embossed leathers and will become softer over time. Evercolor has now become a popular choice for Kelly, Constance, and Lindy bags.
 

5 | Box

The name Box originates from the British Box tanning technique and is Hermès' oldest leather, dating back to the early 1890s. It is made from calf leather aged between 3 to 6 months and undergoes a polishing process, resulting in a fine leather that develops a beautiful patina over time. Box leather is particularly rigid and can maintain its shape well. Due to this characteristic, Box Calf leather is most commonly used in structured handbags like the Kelly Sellier.

However, Box leather has a delicate surface and is prone to wear and scratches. Exposure to moisture can lead to water bubbles, so it is important to take special care in waterproofing and storing it in a dry place during daily use. If minor scratches appear on the leather, you can try gently rubbing the bag with your fingers until the marks fade with the natural oils of the leather. For more severe flaws, professional leather care services or Hermès repair services can be sought for restoration.
 

6 | Barenia

Barenia leather is renowned for its smooth surface, waterproof properties, and beautiful neutral tones. Its name originates from the village of Barr in Alsace, France, and this leather is often described as "magical" because it has the ability to absorb marks and minor scratches when rubbed. The tanning process of Barenia involves dual tanning with chrome and vegetable dyes, followed by soaking in an oil mixture for several weeks to allow the leather to fully absorb the oils, creating that "magical" scratch resistance (raindrops eventually evaporate).

Originally used for Hermès saddles, this smooth calf leather with a slight sheen can resist scratches and rainwater, making it one of the most durable Hermès leathers to date. It was first used in handbags in the 1970s. Barenia leather has the unique characteristic of developing a patina over time as it absorbs oils from the skin, which can be seen as both an advantage and a drawback depending on personal preference. Due to its long history, rich texture, evolving characteristics over time, and distinctive aroma, Barenia is highly popular among long-term collectors.
 

7 | Taurillon Clemence

 Taurillon Clemence is one of Hermès' most popular leathers, known for its relatively lower price point. Introduced in the 1990s, Taurillon Clemence was named after the designer's daughter who introduced it into the Hermès collection. Today, it is commonly referred to simply as Clemence leather or TC. While Clemence and Togo are similar, Clemence has a smoother touch, slightly larger grain, and lacks the pronounced grain pattern of Togo.

Clemence is made from calf leather, with a matte appearance, soft and thick texture. It is typically less structured than other styles, developing a slight slouch and relaxed feel over time, commonly seen in handbag styles like the Lindy bag and Picotin bag. While Clemence may be one of the most slouchy and heavy leathers from Hermès, it is also very durable, scratch-resistant, and can be refurbished. However, one drawback of TC leather is its weak water resistance. When exposed to water, the leather surface is prone to water stains or water bubbles. Therefore, users who own TC leather items need to pay special attention to waterproof protection.

8 | Swift

Swift leather, formerly known as Gulliver, was discontinued in 1999 but reintroduced under a new name in 2005: Swift leather. Made from young female calf leather, Swift leather features delicate natural grain, a soft and elastic touch. It has a lustrous quality and easily absorbs color, making it an excellent choice for Hermès enthusiasts who appreciate vibrant hues. While it is lightweight and offers excellent color vibrancy, Swift leather is prone to scratching and may develop a slouch over time, requiring careful maintenance.
 

9 | Chèvre Coromandel

 Even though Chèvre de Coromandel is considered a more expensive choice in Hermès' leather collection, it remains one of the most sought-after leathers by Hermès enthusiasts. Its texture is similar to Togo leather, sourced from male goats, giving this leather a unique toughness and excellent scratch resistance. It is characterized by its iridescent sheen and fine grain, lightweight yet able to maintain the shape of bags, combining practicality with luxury. The durability and texture of Chèvre de Coromandel make it almost impervious to scratches or flaws, despite being lightweight, soft, and having an excellent hand feel.
 

10 | Chèvre Mysore

Mysore leather, named after the city in India, is currently one of the most commonly used goat leathers by Hermès. Due to its durability and scratch resistance, Mysore is often used as a lining leather to line handbags. It features a unique and intricate horizontal grain pattern and a strong matte surface. The leather is thick, soft, lightweight, and scratch-resistant. Due to the complex manufacturing process and the rarity of the raw material, handbags made from this leather are relatively expensive.
 

11 | Porosus

 Porosus Crocodile, mainly found in Southeast Asia and Northern Australia, is naturally aggressive and combative, making flawless Porosus crocodile leather increasingly rare. Hermès Birkin and Kelly bags are predominantly crafted from the belly skin of young Porosus crocodiles, hence making Porosus the most expensive among Hermès' crocodile leather products of the same size. Hermès has even created a distinctive V-shaped mark (^) specifically for this leather to identify it.

Crocodile Porosus, as Hermès' most expensive exotic leather, can have a smooth (Lisse) or matte surface. It boasts the highest quality and value, with even and neat leather patterns. Upon closer inspection, you may even notice tiny pores on the surface.
 

12 | Niloticus

 Niloticus crocodile leather, primarily found in the Nile River in Africa, is considered Hermès' second-grade premium crocodile leather and is one of the most popular exotic leathers. Niloticus crocodile leather features large scales with many small dots or pores, transitioning in texture from square to irregular round shapes. It comes in two appearances: Lisse (shiny) and matte. The former is achieved by polishing the skin to a beautiful sheen. The Hermès Himalaya handbag, for example, is crafted from Niloticus crocodile leather processed through special techniques.

Niloticus crocodile handbags can be identified by two dot symbols (••) next to the Hermès name. Despite these crocodiles originating from the Nile River, it is recommended to keep the bags away from water to prevent damage.
 

13 | Alligator

 Alligator mississippiensis, originating from North America, is a species of alligator with a short, U-shaped snout and is considered relatively gentle among the three types of alligators. In comparison to the previous two types of crocodile leather, this type of alligator leather is the only one without pores, featuring a very smooth and soft surface. The transition between the hornback pattern and the belly pattern is very distinct, with parallel lines and a very neat texture. The patterns are more irregular with larger scales, making it more commonly used in small bags and accessories.

This highly popular exotic leather is available in both matte and smooth (lisse) finishes. This exquisite leather is rarely seen in larger handbags, and despite its similarities to Niloticus crocodile and Porosus crocodile leather, alligator leather handbags are priced more affordably among these three types of crocodile leather. You can identify American alligator leather handbags and accessories by the square mark, "□," next to the Hermès name.
 

14 | Ostrich

Ostrich leather, sourced from South Africa, is one of Hermès' most durable exotic leathers. It is considered a high-priced specialty leather second only to crocodile leather. Ostrich leather bags are easily recognizable by the circular pore patterns on their surface, which are actually follicles from the ostrich's skin. Hermès' skilled craftsmen meticulously flatten these circular dots to ensure a smooth and delicate feel of the ostrich leather. Ostrich leather comes in a matte finish and typically offers unique colors inherent to the skin. The leather is soft yet firm, with a tensile strength five times than the cowhide, maintaining its shape well over time.

While durable, exposure to hand oils and sweat can darken or soften the leather. It is the only exotic leather offered by Hermès without the Hermès special leather stamp and does not require CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora) importation regulations when imported into the United States.
 

15 | Lizard

Varanus Niloticus is one of the two types of lizard skins commonly used by Hermès. The best way to identify Varanus Niloticus leather is by checking the mark next to the Hermès name. Varanus Niloticus leather is marked with a single hyphen (-) next to the Hermès stamp. Like most of Hermès' exotic leathers, lizard skin comes in both matte and smooth finishes. However, the small scales of the lizard result in a subtle sheen even on matte products. Due to the smaller size of the lizard, this leather is typically used for smaller handbags and accessories. Lizard skin is a delicate material that requires regular maintenance to prevent the scales from drying out.

Varanus Salvator from Southeast Asia is famous for its use in Hermès' "gradient" lizard handbags and accessories. The Varanus Salvator leather is marked with two hyphens (=) next to the Hermès stamp. The leather undergoes a dyeing process to create a symmetrical pattern, highlighting the natural texture of the leather.